SAGADA The Philippine version of Shangri-la, Sagada may not be utopian but it is definitely remote, exotic and peaceful. Although hundreds of backpackers and a few small tour groups have visited Sagada each year since the 1970s commercial interests have failed to change the unique harmony between mother nature and the local tribal culture. A tribal council prevents Filipinos and foreigners from owning land,houses and businesses thereby making it impossible for tourism to change the beautiful atmosphere. The local families maintain the freedom to decide how their village culture adapts to the needs of accommodating visitors so cultural traditions are preserved. The wonderful feeling of harmony visitors experience as they go hiking through the nearby countryside can only be compared to meditation or prayer and keeps people returning.

Sagada lies in a small valley at an elevation of 1500 meters or 5,000 feet. If you plan was to go there from December to March, you can expect to experience night temperatures as low as 4 degrees Celsius with moderately warmer weather of 15-20 degrees during the days. The local residents of Sagada are Igorots of the Kankanay tribal ancestry. Roughly three thousand of them live in the town center while another 9,000-10,000 people inhabit the outlying areas. The forebears of the current residents practiced an unusual burial practice by hanging and stacking coffins, hand carved from tree trunks, in the limestone cliffs and caves near town. Sagada features caves that can be explored (even by non-experts) with the aid of local guides, an interesting hike along an underground river, a waterfall and pool to cool off in after a day of exploring, and a quiet serenity only found off the beaten path. Exploring the "big cave" is a challenge requiring a guide with ropes and miners' lamps. The "bat cave" and a couple of other caves are smaller and could be explored alone.

As far as accommodations are concerned, Sagada has several reasonably priced inns from $4 to $10/room. St. Joseph's Guest House is run by the nuns of an Episcopalian convent offers dormitory beds at $3 and serves tasty vegetarian dinners. Masfere's Guesthouse is run by the family of the famous photographer of the 1920's untouched tribal people, has rooms for under $10 and serves a nourishing breakfast. Both provide help to locate local guides. Several treks are are available that you can view on a map diplayed on the wall near the entrance at Masferes. You can also pick up a few photos, post cards or tee shirts of the mountain tribes taken by E. Masferé. At Sagada Weavers Association beautiful hand loom weavings are souvenirs that last a lifetime and help the locals survive.

My friend Dave, an Englishman I'd met years ago in Seoul, hasmade Sagada his "home" for the last 7 years. The first four years he devoted to painting and the last three years to music. He's managed to accumulate enough musical instruments to host a music club for the locals ranging from 12 years to 55 years old! Several bands have formed as a result and practice in the late afternoons. The last I heard, Dave became the church organ player. So if any of you have ever dreamed of living in a peaceful place with a frugal budget where you can pursue the art of your choice, Sagada could be your Shangri-La.

GETTING THERE!

You can leave before 10am so you can see the volcanic ash left by Mt. Pinatubo and the scenery during the last hour of a 6 hour ride.Check-out the market in Baguio; the cinnamon rolls and natural strawberry jam are good snacks for the bus trip the next day. Since the bus trips to Sagada from Baguio depart between 6:00 am and 7:00 am daily from Dangwha Bus Station it's a good idea to find it the night before so you know where you're going the next morning. You will pass long stretches of rough zigzag roads with breathtaking scenery on the way to Sagada. As you negotiate your way through the vast mountain ranges of Benguet, you view contrasting landscapes of jagged mountain peaks, and extensive networks of terraces with all sorts of vegetable crops set amidst a backdrop of blue skies and silken white clouds.You ascend the mountainous terrain of Benguet, and will notice a considerable drop in the temperature before entering the Mountain Province. Eventually you'll descend to a low-lying area before ascending the adjacent valley of Sagada. You can take the 11:30 pm bus for a midnight run to Baguio from Victory Liner on EDSA & on the same day go to Sagada. You arrive in Baguio at around 5:30 am.

CRUCIFIXION RE-ENACTMENT

Many provinces in the catholic culture of the Philippines have crucifixion ceremonies during Easter, or "holy week" as they refer to it. But only one, in Gua Gua, Pampanga, less than two hours north of Manila, features such a real life re-enactment. This may sound a little gory but it's a great cultural experience to see if you happen to be nearby during Easter - or "Holy Week." It's a great photo opportunity. One of the best travel photos I've ever taken was shot from crawling on my stomach amongst a dozen others where I was able to capture the silhouette of the nail punctured left hand on the cross.

Filipinos mimic Jesus' crucifixion on Good Friday about 12:00 noon. About 10 people, including a woman, will be crucified in the central Luzon Island town on Good Friday in a bloody imitation of the crucifixion of Jesus Christ some 2,000 years ago. It's been a tradition there since after the second world war. It is their own religious belief. Filipinos do it to atone for their sins. This year, there are about 10 barangays (districts) according to a local barangay captain Zoilo Castro. One crucifixion will take place at noon time in the Cutud district of San Pedro town, 80 kilometres (50 miles) north of Manila. The best is outside of Gua Gua, Pampanga, because the "Christ"'s hands are pierced with spikes after being tied to the wood cross. There's not as much blood as you might expect since the tying of the arms in 2 places helps to prevent bleeding like a tourniquet. A field has been cleared to be used as the site of the crucifixion. Three crosses are hoisted up for a few minutes. As the "Christ," is being prepared there's a eery humming chant that allows the "Christ" to reach a trance like state so I doubt he feels much pain. It's a mystical experience for all who witness the event.

About a dozen other Filipinos walk barefoot, some with masked faces, down the streets leading to the open field where the three crosses are erected. Being the hot, dry, summer season, the tropical heat of the sun relects the sweat and blood as they beat their backs to a bloody pulp with bamboo "cat-of-nine tails" whips. These whips are made from bamboo. They make barely visible slices across each other's backs with homemade glass disks made from coke bottles imbedded in wooden mallots. So the pain is probably not as intense as the great amount of bleeding leads everyone to think but the spectacle provides quite a show.

The crucifixion, which draws large crowds of local and foreign tourists, started in 1946 and has endured ever since. Last year, 15 people were crucified, the highest number since the ritual began. No one has ever died from the bloody rites. The Philippines is predominantly Roman Catholic. The Catholic Church frowns upon the ritual, which combines Catholic fervour with primitive beliefs. The Lenten season is also a period of fasting and penitence in Asia's only majority Catholic country.

Palawan - 1000 Islands

Palawan has over a thousand islands of the Philippines'7107 islands.It's the least populated group of islands in the Philippines if not all of Southeast Asia. There's countless islands there which haven't even been named yet. One such island of the west central coast not far from Port Barton was called "Bruno Island" after a French backpacker who decided to build a native house and live there. (I'm sure that he leased it for some low amount from some local fishing family so don't let me give the wrong impression that islands are free.) Another island, slightly to the north, a Japanese guy built a "bahai kubo" a small native house not much larger than a king sized bed to stay a few months each winter. (There's also a popular song that most Filipinos know named "Bahai Kubo"). The original inhabinants of Palawan numbered only 30,000 various tribal aboriginies, referred to as "Atis". Today, the population has grown to about a half million Filipinos of 81 different cultural groups from all over the Philippines, especially the Visayas and Mindanao. Homesteading is still available to Filipinos there; property rights can be granted on a five hectare (12+ acres) lot after five years of making the land produce some agricultural product. Palawan is almost like a territory in the "old west" in that aspect. GETTING THERE You can fly ($120 RT) either to Puerto Princesa (daily) on PAL or Air Philippines, to El Nido daily with Soriano Air and to Coron,Busuanga in the Calamian Group (the northern Palawan Island group) 3 or 4 times a week with Pacific Air. It's also possible to take a ship once a week (slow-2 nights for $25 one way) from North Harbor in Manila to Puerto Princesa. Also a small shipping line from Batangas Pier on the the south coast of Luzon Island (less than a 3 hour bus ride from Manila's BLTB bus station on EDSA in Pasay City)departs once a week to Coron. One good point about traveling by ship once or twice is you really experience local life complete with roosters, sacks of produce, dried fish and the incredibly cramped conditions that Filipios live with and feel comfortable in. Also for the budget conscious traveling on overnight buses and ships is almost like free travel because otherwise you'd be paying for the night's accomodation. I have traveled this way a bit more than I'd like to remember transporting tons of building supplies from Manila to Boracay Island when we built our first resort, Villa Camilla. PORT BARTON & The Underground River After landing in Puerto Princesa you can get a 5 hour jeepney ride to Port Barton (northwest of Puerto Princesa) or take a break half way on a beach near San Rafael (great snorkeling). Because it's often crowded inside you're free to ride on top.Be careful and ready to jump just in case but "WOW WHAT A WAY TO TRAVEL". It was beautiful; Elsa's resort,in Port Barton is sort of like a resort but nothing grand like you would see in Boracay or El Nido. It was actually very charming like Gilligan's Island. The electricity was provided by generators. They had an outdoor restaurant amidst tropical plants that overlooked the beach. Cute little huts that accommodated three persons in each. It wasn't very crowded even though it was the week before New Year's Eve.CAN'T SAY THAT ABOUT ANYWHERE IN THAILAND,CAN YOU? You can then hire a bangka (outrigger canoe)for less than $50 to see the Underground River which was down the coast a bit. Usually you can join a group of 6 people with plenty of room to go see the Underground river since it's the most common destination.The River started from a little bay that connected to the sea. There are picinic tables and an outhouse at the entrance of the river along with monkeys and big lizards that I think they are sort of brought there for part of the attraction. But don't me wrong ,the jungle wildlife is still abundant in Palawan just not in places inhabited by people. On the way there, alot of flying fish followed us while we were riding the outrigger in the ocean. The bangkas that toured the Underground River were equipped with a kerosene lamp placed in front of the boat to light the way while the guide sat at the back to steer and paddle. The maximum capacity of the boat was six. The length of the river was one to 1-1/2 miles long and the tour lasted for about an hour. As we moved slowly through rocky tunnel like steep gorges it feel like you're the first explorers there. The end of the river was the coolest. The cavern ceilings were really high (2-3 stories high) like being in a church but without the customary doves flying around just a huge population of bats "hanging out". The eerie chills scary movies give you is how the scene effects most visitors. Luckily, none of the bats swooped close to us. On the way home we felt the ocean waters'spray in our faces and the motion of the wind. I think all of our minds wandered dreaming of a simpler life enjoying this getaway from the busy life in Manila. El Nido is on the northwest coast and in the last few years seems to be the most popular destination among the travelers passing through our place in Manila. Originally it catered to only Japanese group tourists since the Japanese were the one who built the 5 Star resort and small airport. Then the Hong Kong tourists began booking trips there until there was a 6 month waiting list. Eventually about 10 years ago the locals nearby on the outskirts of the expensive resort built small native huts and cottages meant for the lower budget traveler. It's off shore rocky cliffed islands help create the scenic beauty that attracts so many people. If you have ever been to Krabi's Reilay Beach in southern Thailand then you can picture El Nido in your mind's eye. There are several dive shops which offer scuba divers excellent diving spots in the Bacuit Arhipelago. CORON, BUSUANGA The best wreck diving in the Philippines is just off the coast of Coron, Busuanga. Philippe and Joel of Lapu Lapu Divers are old friends from Boracay with 15 years of experience and fun to be with. A recent email I received as follows;" I really can recommend Coron for diving, is a world-class-divespot. The special thing is not a very good visibility or lots of fish, it´s the wrecks and the Barracuda Lake. We visited Coron for the third time already and it´s getting better and better. When we visited the wrecks for the first time, we didn't dare to swim inside. It´s dark, narrow and can be very dangerous without a local guide. We felt very comfortable with Yoshi, a Japanese girl, who is working for Discovery Divers (www.vasia.com/ddivers) Gunter Bernert, the owner of Discovery Divers, is a very nice guy, reliable and very experienced in tech-diving. This year we have been diving in Alona Beach, Apo Island/ Dumaguete, Moalboal and Coron and I can say: Coron was No. 1 in the Philippines for us. This year the temperature of the water was two degrees Celcius less that it was two years ago, I could see on my dive-computer when I downloaded the datas at home." Coron itself is nothing to look at with mangrove areas and not much of a beach. But most of the accomodation is there and many of the most beautiful beaches and small islands do not have sufficient fresh water to support a community. So you can stay there and will no doubt meet someone from the Lim clan since they run many of the small businesses there. You can join a group of other travelers on day trips to visit the scenic spots such as "Treasure Island", Calumbuyan Island, several islands in Gutob Bay, and Dimakya Island by jeepney or bangka. Calauit Island is a "must see' place; in 1976,the Ferdinand Marcos Family resettled the local inhabinants of the island and introduced African animals to create a "natural zoo". Eight species such as giraffes, zebras, and gazelles, have thrived and reproduced until now about 500 such animals are alive. Other rare indigineous animals also live in the wildlife sanctuary. There's a small resort island called Club Paradise off the north coast on the way to Calauit Island where those of you who might feel like splurging for a couple of days ($150/day). An old friend of ours, Raymond, a French speaking Belgium Canadian, has secured a huge coastal property on the nearby coastline. He has a few horses and slowly is cutting a few primitive pathways through the jungle and has six cottages available. ($50/day with everthing included, the last I heard.)For many years he operated a large bangka service once a week from Coron to El Nido. On the way from Port Barton north to San Vicente we passed several "virgin" white sand beaches which can't be reached by road and remain untouched. Talk about stimulating one's imagination, take some time out of your life and you'll understand how I feel about Palawan. The dozens of beaches and shoreline waters in Palawan are incredible! They're various shades of turquoise because of the white sand beaches providing an inspiring view for everyone. No matter where you travel afterwards this soothing, colorful view will remain one of the most beautiful sights in your memory. After living in overcrowded Asian cities the lack of population in Palawan really impressed me. I guess alot of Americans are fond of wide open spaces away from society. I remember repeating over and over again to my wife how much I wanted to move to Palawan after our visit. Since 1995, we live in Santa Cruz, CA with 26 miles of beautiful beaches. My wife and I have often been tempted to "trade-in" our beachfront place on Boracay Island in the Philippines but after a few moments look at each and in unison say "nahhh". After you return to organized, scheduled lifestyles and whenever your career becomes a bit too stressful all you have to do is close your eyes allowing your Palawan experience to rescue you from your daily duties. BORACAY ISLAND, PHILIPPINES
My wife and I feel like we've "grown up" on this island, arriving in January 1980 when we were 25 years old before the road was finished from the provincial capital, Kalibo to Malay, Boracay's municipality on the "mainland" (Panay Island). My wife and I spend a few weeks or months on Boracay every year since we built Villa Camilla in 1989 - 1991. My wife, Lorna (an exceptional,"one out of a million" type of person) built her first native house in 1980 made from bamboo and coco lumber with a nipa roof (woven palmetto leaves) but it finally collapsed after the third typhoon in the month of October 1986 and due to her less than attentive caretakers.

So after meeting in Seoul, spending our first five nights together in three different countries, we agreed to meet again on Boracay for the full moon party and New Years Eve 1983-4. I'll never forget those 10 days of losing ourselves on the beach! Our present, on-going romance started 15 years ago under Boracay's warm, starry nights. Once again, as I write, the sensual, dreamlike memories bring back that warm glow that Boracay has gave to many others as well. It may sound weird but we know more than a few couples who, after being together for years, conceived a child only after spending a few weeks on Boracay Island.Sound tempting? Take a break when you get the chance and don't forget to send us the baby pictures. Afterwards because "normal, practical life" demanded our attention, we returned to Hong Kong and had some good luck together in Hong Kong financially (and personally) in 1984-1986. Then we decided to return to Boracay and build a place that would last "forever" in 1989. Since then we've thoroughly enjoyed all the changes that Boracay Island has experienced from worldwide fame and being declared "the best beach destination in the world" by the British Tourist authority in 1994. Many backpacker travelers are heading for Palawan these days seeking less developed islands but no matter which island group in the world that you explore it will be tough to match Boracay. It has found that happy balance between comforts and conveniences which development brings and natural, dreamlike beauty with local smiling faces without highrises of any kind. The availablity of low budget rentals will not limit those who'd like to visit like many "resort islands". Everyone wants to find the "New" Boracay with an undeveloped, virgin white sand beach, lined with coconut palms and an easy to swim, colorful shoreline.GOOD LUCK. Boracay's white sand, coconut palm lined beach stretches for 4 kms (2 1/2 miles), making dreams of paradise and romance a reality. Offshore, the beautiful, gleaming, tourquoise sea with its warm tropical water is more inviting than any swimming pool on a steaming hot day. What a place meet friends and lovers for long sunny days and memorable moonlit nights. There's an incredible choice of restaurants, things to do, water sports and the most international group of travelers, tourists and "expats" in the Philippines. There are many exotic places around the world but the people you meet who prove interesting conversationists leave you with longest lasting memories. The locals are still mellow (don't hassle you like the Javanese in BALI) and friendly without the "Hi Joe, where you come from? where you going?" that you will find in most other areas of the provinces. And PRICES - they can range from $5 for a basic Nipa Hut to over a $150 for a five star resort!! Where else does such a wide range of choices exist? Some people have built beautiful private houses which are for rent when they're away from Boracay. The many available cottages allow you to shop around for a great discount, often cheaper than other beaches where there's only a few choices. The "regulars" who come every winter have arranged their lives and budgets so they live several months a year on the island for as little as $300/ month!! GETTING THERE

You can fly from Manila or Cebu to Kalibo daily on Philippine Airlines or from Manila with several other new airlines like Air Philippines, Cebu Pacific,Grand Air, and Asian Spirit. Then take an airconditioned bus ride for 1 1/2 hours, crossing some of the most lush tropical scenery in the Philippines from the airport to Caticlan. From Caticlan's small ferry terminal you can board a large bangka to the island. Pacific Air and Asian Spirit fly daily directly to Caticlan where a few-minute ride on a local "tricycle" takes you to the bangka station. Flight fares are nearly the same from $40 to $60 one-way to either Kalibo or Caticlan. Iloilo is on the south end of Panay, and Boracay is opposite aticlan, off the northwest corner. The minivan ride from Iloilo to Caticlan would be about four hours long. MBRS lines operates a ferry between Manila's Pier 8 and Caticlan twice a week. The name of the ship is Mary the Queen. It leaves Manila for Boracay at 5PM on Friday and Monday of each week. An ordinary ticket is about $10, Deluxe (a reserved bunk in an aircon dorm) is $15, and a bunk in a four-bunk cabin is $20. From Iloilo, take a aircon minivan to Caticlan for about 300 Pesos. From Catciclan, you take a 10-20 minute boat ride to the Island for less than 50 cents (U$). Or pay less than $5 for your own bangka that will take you directly to where you want to go on the island instead of the 3 boat stations. This is the cheapest, most comfortable way..

FUN IN THE SUN
Over the years we have noticed that many visitors come to Boracay and get bored after a day or two, unable to "do nothing." Call us lazy but we love doing nothing, falling asleep, reading novels while gently swinging in a hammock. All beaches and islands change once they become well known worldwide but somehow Boracay has not lost its wonderful barefoot culture and will never have vehicles on the beach path. I never forget my first impressions of California after getting back from Boracay and other Asian beaches. I wondered "where will the cement end?" from San Diego to Santa Barbara. (And the curfew of 10PM in most places in California!) In Boracay, you can get totally "wasted" stay up all night dancing at the "Beachcomber" until the wee hours of the morning, "pass out" on the beach without having some beach patrol tapping you on the shoulder, telling you to move on or worse yet give you a citation. Life on the beach in Boracay seems so free and easy going and the rents will never require a major corporate paycheck to survive (and thrive) there with a quality lifestyle. To be Cont. Beware of False Newscast
That pollution newscast about Boracay last August '97 was a press release by an ex-D.O.T (tourism) secretary with a personal vendetta against Boracay and its inhabitants during his first visit in over 5 years. Filipinos are not a united people like the Thais, thus they display a tendency to do whatever they can to sabotage each others' successes (remind anyone of their own country?). The Philippine govt. acted quickly with experts, tested the sea for pollution and inspected each and every resort's septic tank ordering many to build new, better designed systems. The experts' findings proved that only 15% of the hyped pollution was present, over 6 times LESS. But the damage was done and we all know that BAD NEWS carries farther and faster than GOOD NEWS. Boracays' fishing families have more presence and are laid back. I hope you can make up your mind; living and working in Japan, Korea, Taiwan or Hong Kong - YOU DESERVE a Holiday. A Budget Adventure Trip

I've always wanted to take the time to travel around the Philippines by sea in the native bancas, or in the variety of ships used by the local shipping lines. Probably 90% of the Filipinos who travel looking for work, doing business or visiting relatives travel on a tight budget by sea. Those traveling economy class usually bring their own homecooked meals and drinks although modest meals are served by the shipping lines and sometimes included in the fare. Recently much better ships have been added to some lines which have three or four restaurants or canteens and sell snacks and drinks from a small shop located in the middle of the ship. It's a good idea to join other foreign travelers so you can help each other keep an eye on each other's belongings unless you travel in cabin class where you can lock your room. Bedspace assignments are often easy to trade.The older your bag looks the safer it is to leave unattended. When we were building Villa Camilla on Boracay I used the ship several times to transport construction materials and will never forget the feeling of the open seas and the people I met on the way. Sometimes it's possible to get to the roof of the ship (if you're lucky enough to find a door unlocked) to get some space away from the mass of passengers below decks. Once we were able to enjoy the sunset and stayed until the stars filled the sky. I suppose these same pleasures are possible on a cruise ship but paying less than $15 on a local ship somehow enhances the experience even more. A few years ago, I wouldn't recommend this type of travel to most tourists since older ships can be overcrowded making the comfort rooms difficult to keep clean. But now, with more modern ships available it's much more comfortable with easy access to open air deck seats. Now you can really enjoy the fanatstic experience of traveling by sea without paying cruise ship prices Some ships are quite slow with average travel times being 18 or more hours but we just arrived back from Boracay on MBRS Line's "Virgin Mary" in 13+ hours.

I have a choice of leaving from Manila's North Harbor or Batangas Pier and will take the first available ship departing. Arriving guests often ask me about traveling the Philippines by ship or banca. I usually do not recommend traveling longer distances which take several hours in a banca, even a large one from June to November. Sudden storms can make the seas really rough especially during typhoon season. Although several ships have sunk over the last ten years, mainly from overcrowding, I still advise our guests to travel by ship anytime from November to June when most people visit the Philippines. Aboitiz, Negros Navigation, and the Super Ferries have the best reputations. As for myself, I don't really consider traveling by ship or banca very dangerous most of the year. I always look at it this way - the owner of the banca or ship will not take the risk of losing his property therefore if the weather is threatening he will postpone the departure. (also being a swimmer when I was younger I'm confident I could survive a long time in the open water). The excitement of taking off next month is already raising my energy level; it's another reason I love writing these travel articles for Suite101.com.

What To Bring

I will bring few clothes maybe only one extra pants and two shirts since it's easy to buy cheap clothes almost anywhere.One pair of walking shoes, two pairs of socks and some flip-flops will take care of my feet. One towel, wash cloth, and a few toiletries should be enough. Include some bandaids to protect against blisters since walking long distances is common for a variety of reasons. First aid should include a few headache pills (against hangover headaches) and a few cotton balls and the smallest container of hydrogen peroxide or alchohol that you can find will take care of any unplanned skin abrasions. If the sun is blazing native woven hats are available in most of the islands. One thick paperback book, reading glasses, and sunglasses will take care of my eyes and those long hours with nothing to do. For those of you who enjoy a drink (or two) bring a liter bottle of local Tanduay or Anejo rum(75 cents!)with a family size bottle of coke to keep you smiling and help you socialize with the locals. Whether you have a high tolerance level or not to such drinking and socializing, I'd strongly advise you to tighten one strap of your bag around your leg or some part of your body to protect against theft. It's a good idea to wear a cloth money belt with a zipper that can be worn under my pants. Those larger waist pouches always seemed to me to flaunt one's wealth especially in poor countries. I will be visiting some resorts and tourist destinations that our guests have told me about over the years so I won't need much else other than my cameras and 20 rolls of film. Life "on the road" is simple living at its best. It's a great chance for success and career minded people to relax, leave all their worries and schedules behind and live spontaneously enjoying the everchanging present.

Where to Go?

Since I plan to take it as it goes I can't say eaxctly where I will go or when which is the greatest thing about this trip. I'd advise everyone to be fluid when you travel; it's really too bad so many people are determined to stay on a fixed schedule. But soon after celebrating my daughter's 13th birthday I'll be heading for Coron, Busuanga, the northern Palawan group of islands. My "plan" is to travel spontaneously with as little as possible advance planning and to keep in motion without staying anywhere more than one or two nights. I will head south to Puerto Princesa and then on to Zamboanga, southwestern Mindanao as well as the to the "Pirate Islands" (Basilan, Tawi-Tawi and other islands)in the Sulu Sea. Ships to Davao, the Philippines' fast growing 4th largest city in southeastern Mindanao should be frequent. From Davao it's also possible since less than 5 years ago to take a ship to Manado, in Indonesia. But I will be turning north (probably by bus unless a ship is leaving and has a stopover on the way to a larger city )towards Siargao, the world traveler surfer's paradise and latest secret to catch a few waves. After a couple of days I will head by bus or jeepney for the nearest coastal area to Camiguin Island where a few friends fron Boracay Island decided to move to about 5 or more years ago. I've heard alot of positive feedback from our guests about the friendly local people and great variety of tropical scenery. From Camiguin once a week there's boat to Cebu but I will also inquire about going to Dumaguete, Negros Island. From Cebu or via Negros I want to visit Bohol and there's a fast boat from Cebu City that takes an hour or less to Tagbilaran. Panglau is the closest island with a beautiful beach and one of the more popular tourist destinations. After Panglau, Bohol, I will either catch a ship to Manila or head overland by a series of ferries and buses to meet my wife and daughter on Boracay Island. Then it's time to resume the construction on our new, private, beach house. By Febuary 2000, we'll finally have a place to offer friends we meet "on the road" a free place to stay on one of the best beaches in the world.(and not a bad place to hang out for a few months a year the rest of your life).

World Travelers - Welcome Home

When I began writing for Suite101.com I began with a few articles about destinations in the Philippines. It's one of the countries in Asia I know the best since I lived there continously for seven years. So after spending many months away, writing about the countries of the Middle East and Central Asia, I'm going home to the Philippines to cover several more of the Islands. I'll write about places where you can forget about your troubles like the stress from expectation and obligation, and the pain of broken promises while sipping on a rum & coke (with calamansi - no hangover) watching the sunset as coconut palms sway overhead. Learn how to enjoy life and about the simple joy of companionship from the Filipinos who find each day a new opportunity for a fiesta. Like the last of "Bill's Travel Tips" that is displayed in our Townhouse Hotel (guesthouse) in Manila, Don't Worry Be Happy".

English Teachers in Japan, Korea, & Taiwan - Winter's Coming

Most foreigners staying in Asia usually work in one of the more affluent countries listed above in a variety of jobs, teaching English, the most common. After almost 2 years in Asia, I first arrived in January 1980 after working as an English teacher in Seoul for 6 months. It was a great experience and self confidence builder for me but I was thrilled to be escaping the worst of the winter. The day I left Korea, a cold, windy sub zero snow blizzard bade me farewell and a hot, sultry tropical day greeted me in Manila. The feeling of relief was incredible after only 6 months of saving I could afford to travel in S.E. Asia for many months without working. The total culture shock between living in one of N.E, Asia's societies of "company men" dressed in dark suits and ties where people "live to work" and arriving to see the informal,friendly Filipinos'dressed in relaxed T-shirts and jeans with a "Manana" attitude was shockingly pleasant. Absolutely nobody dressed in a suit ad tie, not even the politicians and businessmen. Most of the teachers would agree that without hesitation they'd choose to live in the Philippines or Thailand if any way of making a living was available. I guess it's much the same all over the world when comparing southern and northern climates and cultures.

At first, I noticed the poor living conditions of the people living in the shadows of multinational hotel and buildings. But regardless of what we in the "west" judge to be intolerable the Filipinos on the street displayed bright, friendly smiles. Have you taken a good look at the faces of people wherever you live? I always felt so comfortable in the Philippines, being among the friendliest, most informal people on earth, the Filipinos. At the time, I was more than a little influenced by the 60s culture of freedom, rebellion against many of the traditional, restrictive American values and nonattachment. After I traveled around the Philippines for four months I noticed the Filipino people were so easy going, loved cultural fiestas as a way of life and worked to live not as many in the "West" lived to work. For lack of a better description I thought of them as a country full of "hippies". Finding myself for the first time in many years of traveling without any urge to leave, I became "freaked out" by the realization. Loving life as a "rollingstone" since I finished high school, I finally felt like a getting house, a boat and some transport and continue this "bubbly happiness" but I made a move instead.

I flew to Thailand for 2 weeks, met some old friends, had some fun but got "homesick" for the Philippines. It was June and time for the "Grand Plan" I'd made was approaching fast but returned for a short trip before going back to the States. The Philippines never left my mind as a second home option after those few months. After almost a 4 year absence, I'd planned to go back to school in the States and for the first time since I'd started traveling, I'd arrive home with savings instead of empty pockets. East Asian countries have accoplished economic miracles which can be linked to Confucian values and Buddhist morals. After a couple of years in Asia my way of looking at life had changed radically. It was feasible to work in N.E. Asia part of the year and spend the winters in the tropical Philippines, Thailand or Indonesia. This new opton remained a valuable, psychological bridge for me during my future stays in the States.

A Few Useful Filipino Words & Phrases

Ka-in-na means "Let's eat" or "Come and join us" almost like "Hello"

Sal-a-mat Po(or Ho, a sign of respect) means "Thank You".

Wa-lang-an-a-man means "You're Welcome"

Sa-rap means "delicious".

Mig-kan-o means "How much does it cost?"

Pwe-deng Tu-ma-wad means "Can you discount the price?"

Ma-hal means "expensive" and as a sign of affection to a spouse or lover means "Dear" or "Honey"

Ma-hal-ki-ta means "I love you".

Ma-gan-dang U-ma-ga means "Good Morning".

Ma-gan-dang Ha-pon means "Good Afternoon".

Ma-gan-dang Ga-bi means "Good Evening" FUN in the SUN under the coconut palms with a rum & coke (with calamansi) - next article Camiguin Island is located northeast of Cagayan De Oro City on the north central coast of Mindanao, the Philippines'large island on the south of the archepelago. It has a total land area of 292 sq. km. with over 4,000 hectares of tropical jungle. I've heard about Camiguin Island for years from our guests in Manila and few previous Boracay residents who had moved to Camiguin many years ago. I always wondered how a somewhat remote island without a magnificent white sand beach keeps drawing tourists there. Camiguin Island sounds alot like Hawaii with a unique blend of unspoiled beauty both inland and along its coastline providing a wonderful contrast. Rugged, majestic volcanic mountains rise sharply into the clouds, while below, gentle turquoise seas roll softly over sandy beaches. Waterfalls thunder down into smooth rocky pools surrounded by wild ferns and orchids. The island has its own "blue lagoon" (like the movie with Brook Sheilds) with refreshing cold springs nearby. You can follow hiking paths to find invigorating hot springs as well as soothing, sparkling soda springs in other areas. Travelers will always "come again" to Camiguin Island, one of Mother Nature's incredible tropical paradises with sea, forest and mountain all repesented.

Hibok-Hibok Volcano

Camiguin Island has seven volcanos but the best known one is Hibok-Hibok which has been dormant since its last eruption in 1951. The trail leading up to the volcano passes by cement statues depicting scenes of Christ's last hours before his crucifiction with his disciples and Roman guards. If you need some time alone and a break from humanity you can try a solo climb to Hibok-Hibok Volcano if you're reasonably fit and have something warm to wear when you reach the upper elevations. Start your trip at the Ardent Hot Springs Resort about 8 kilometers away from Mambajao across Baylao. Of course it's always a good idea to get started early in the morning just after sunrise and a good breakfast. There's a chance you may meet someone along the trek in case you feel like company later. Once you reach the peak have a rest before going down into the volcano’s cold and foggy dead crater. If you brought a tent or somehow found one to buy or borrow you have the choice of sleeping overnight amidst weird echoing sounds of birds and insects but be prepared for an extreme drop in temperature with rain. It's no fun to be cold and wet so don't stay the night unless you came prepared.

White "Island"

The only white sand beach is the small island of white sand sitting on top of a colorful coral reef nicknamed "White Island". Actually it's just a sand bar without vegetation about 1000 meters from the shoreline, too far to swim. But during the lowest of tides it's posssible to walk and swim there but bring a snack and water since you'll be stuck there until you're either picked up by a passing banca or until another low tide makes it safe to return to shore. During high tide it's reduced to the size of half a basketball court most of the year but during the wet season it's totally submerged.Bring a snorkel set so you can entertain yourself by looking at the multicolored corals ad tropical fish nearby between tanning sessions.If some kind of umbrella could be found it would make a great photo souvenir.

The People

Everyone who visits Camiguin has told me how friendly the people are and about their middle class living conditions. In a poor country like the Philippines poverty can be seen wherever you visit. But it seems that the people of Camiguin have enough to eat, live in ancestral, rustic, wooden houses with cable TV, and a telephone, and they have the highest literacy rate in the region. That alone puts it high on the list of travel destinations and islands worth considerstion for a semi-permanent "homebase". Old Spanish ruins tell something about their past and the scene of cement statues on the way to Hibok-Hibok Volcano attest to their religious nature. They're friendly people, proud of their island and happy to welcome travelers. The local tourist developments help to make your trip to Camiguin Island a wonderful memory. Enough comfortable guesthouses, small hotels and beach resorts are available ranging in price from 80 pesos ($2) to 1000 pesos ($25) per day. There are plenty of eating places aroung the island which serve inexpensive, local food.

Getting There

You can get to Camiguin by air from Manila to Cagayan de Oro Airport or Butuan Airport, both on the north side of Mindanao Island, then taking a jeepney or bus to Balingoan pier where you board a boat to get to the island. There's also small charter plane service( somewhat expensive at $100+) that flys to Camiguin from Cebu City. For those of you who fancy riding on a ship, saving some money and enjoy the sea air you can take the SuperFerry to Cebu City or Cagayan De Oro City. Check out their schedules at: http://www.wgasuperferry.com/default.htm Once you arrive,the best way to see the island is to rent a motorcycle.

Life in a Hammock Between Dives

Life in the Philippines can be simple when all one has to do is spend hours in a hammock, reading a good book, slightly swaying between two cocnut palm trees. An almost, unknown, small island (less than 50 acres), two miles off the west coast of Mindoro Island, is Pandan Island. It's one of Jens Peters'(author of Philippine Travel Guide written in German) favorite place in the Philippines. Jens includes hundreds of islands in his guide book so being at the top of his island list really gives Pandan special recognition. Its white sand beaches, lush,tropical, jungle interior and remote, out of the way location help make it an almost secret hideaway. The majority of Pandan’s coastline is covered by coral reef that starts right off the beach less than 50 meters from the high tide mark sloping to a depth of 50 meters. Both hard and soft corals cover the slopes, walls, and underwater crevices. One lonely black coral shaped like a Christmas tree at a depth of 40 meter attracts frequent divers. All kinds of fish such as big frogfish, leadfish, crocodilefish and even a 7-foot long grouper have been spotted by the local dive instructors and their students. Thanks to the local government having declared it a protected, marine sanctuary Pandan is a dream snorkeling and scuba diving location. The amazing and colorful,underwater life provide scuba diving enthusiats a great location to explore.You're likely to have the place all to yourselves since very few tourists make it there.

APO REEF

Pandan's dive shops are the only dive operations close to the famous Apo Reef, a large offshore reef system about 20 square kilometers. Apo Reef is about one hour by speed boat. For many years the Apo Reef was the best diving in the Philippines until it suffered damages due to illegal fishing practices. Apo Reef has been protected as a marine sanctuary for several years and the more shallow areas are slowly recovering even though it may take over 20 years to recover from the destruction. The walls at deeper depths did not suffer from the damage so remain beautifully untouched. At depths of 15 to 25 meters new corals have already began growing and the number tropical fish increased much faster than anyone had expected returning to this ideal marine habitat. Fish migrated from other areas and stayed so within a year the sanctuary was a thriving ecosystem. The larger species like mantas, hammerhead sharks, whitetip sharks, gray sharks, tunas, barracudas, and turtles can be seen in the greater depths, for those of you interested in more adventurous diving.

Getting There

GETTING THERE BY PLANE: Fly to San Jose, Mindoro, get a bus to Sablayan( two hours ), catch the shuttle boat to Pandan. The local resorts will pick you up from San Jose airport if you make an advance booking. Philippine Airlines depart Manila 4 times a week on Tuesday, Wednesday, Friday and Sunday at 6AM, arriving in san Jose at 7AM. Asian Spirit' flights depart Manila at 6:20AM on Monday, Thursday, and Saturday to San Jose. The cost of both are about U$35 one way. For travelers with larger budgets you can take a seaPlane from Manila Harbour directly to Pandan Beach in about 90 minsutes for about U$500 for three passengers.

GETTING THERE BY FERRY: From Manila, take the BLTB bus(every hour) on EDSA in Pasay City to Batangas pier and take the Viva Lines' ferry at 5PM(12 hours)to Sablayan. The ship departs Batangas Mondays,Wednesdays,and Saturdays and returns every Tue, Thu & Sun. Viva Lines Tel: 043/723 29 86

Montenegro Lines ferry to Sablayan , every Sunday and Tuesday departure time: 8 am, arrival in Sablayan: 4 pm, only $6 /economy fare.

Ferry 'Nikki' from Manila, North Harbour, Pier 8 to San Jose, every Sunday 5pm Tel: 712 64 80 or 27 67 01

Feel FREE to stop the Townhouse Hotel Manila for a visit and share your island adventure stories with us or our guests. You're AlWAYS WELCOME! Mabuhay Philippines