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ATI-ATIHAN is one of the best, most colorful and fun festivals I've been to in my life. It's nickname, "The Filipino
Mardis Gras" and takes place the 3rd weekend in January every year in Kalibo, Aklan, Panay Island,
Philippines.
Iloilo and many other smaller towns on Panay Island also celebrate the festivals during the weekends from mid January to early
February so if you miss the Kalibo festival you could still experience fun elsewhere. The informality of the festival is what
makes it so great and allows everyone to participate, dance, beat on a drum or just take photos while in the middle of the
tribal groups. The groups include all age groups - another wonderful aspect of the festival. Some of the most creative costumes
unrelated to the tribal themes are displayed by a few of the local gays. The festival includes every local group in Aklan
with a unique tribal heritage, various civic or commercial organizations and individuals that create new costumes every year.
The first time I went was 1980. After teaching English in Seoul, South Korea, for six months and living in a freezing
cold climate, I was more than ready to explore a tropical country and enjoy a cultural fiesta. It proved to be beyond my wildest
expectations. The town of Kalibo was totally
full but I managed to find a bed behind alocal "restaurant"
under a nipa (woven palm leaves) roof. I joined other friends from Japan and Korea who I'd planned to meet as well as many
others in the town square. After a few beers
we were convinced to blacken our faces by some locals from the bottom
of cooking pots. We danced with them in the streets as we followed various groups dressed in these fantastic, colorful costumes
from their native tribes. Whoever had the best group of twenty or more drummers we joined in and danced with them to the beat
of their drums. I stayed for all three days and have always cherished the foggy memory. This is where I found out about Boracay
Island from a few travelers who had arrived early and gone to the beach instead of waiting in Kalibo. Life took me back to
the States later that year but then I returned in 1990,1991 and 1993, 1997, and 1999.
The museum on the town
square is worth a visit to learn more about the origin of Ati Ati Han. Aklan is the oldest province in the Philippines, organized
in 1213 by settler from Borneo as the Minuro it Akean to include what is now Capiz. The festival is a celebration of the king
of the
"Aetas", the original aboriginal inhabitants agreement with the leader of the Malays that came by
"banca" from Sabah's sultanate in the 1200s, 800 years ago. Aklan's capital presently, Kalibo but has changed location
several times throughout their history.
Since the small provincial capital of Kalibo is always overbooked it's
best and more beautiful to stay on Boracay Island. It's easy to hire a jeepney with driver 6AM until sunset for $40 (easily
shared by a group of people you
meet on the beach usually) or a Toyota van with AC with driver for $60 with room for
six persons. One day is plenty and I go either on Saturday or Sunday depending on the weather and who else I'm going with.
In case you miss it there's a much smaller version of the festival that is called " the original Ati Ati Han" held
one week later in Ibajay, a town located half way between Kalibo and Boracay Island on the provincial road.
If
I go, you are welcome to join me and can find me at Ki's Cottages or at Villa Camilla, 300 meters south of boat station #3,
on the main beach. My many photo albums are available at The Townhouse Hotel Manila, Villa Carolina Townhouse #31 Tambo, Paranaque
Metro-Manila.
Iloilo has always had celebrated Ati-Atihan also but in the form of a parade. In the last couple
of years I've heard it's become more informal like Kalibo's festival but I haven't gone there yet.
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